Tutorial: Aquaponics, Energy, and Manufacturing On A Budget

Even if you aren't in a position to become fully self-sufficient with modern technology, there are some low cost options!

Oct 13, 2023

QUICK REFERENCE/SHOPPING LIST FOR MULTIPLE SYSTEM SIZES AT THE END

AI Generated in the style of John Harris

I’m going to outline the lowest cost option for a lot of this stuff, and then I will go into some different options for an upgrade path. You can probably get away with spending less money than the items I list here, however, it will sacrifice quality. This setup already makes some compromises in that regard, but not as many as one might think! The approach here is to spend as little as possible, while making as few compromises as possible.

If you want more serious systems, check out the tutorial on solar as well as the tutorial on aquaponics.

The fun part about this is that even if you already have more serious setups, deploying smaller systems to complement them opens up a whole lot of possibilities. Want to add a small lighting system for your garden, but don’t want to tie it into your main system? Read on..

3D Printer

The first item is going to be the “Handheld 3D Printer.” Technically, its a filament pen and it isn’t necessarily the same as a full 3d printer. Particularly because you have to actually make the movements yourself instead of having the extruder attached to rails as it would be with a traditional 3D printer. That said, it’s a great little tool and can be used to create an impressive variety of objects and art. However, if one needs to make the choice between the 3D printing pen and one of the items in the aquaponics or energy systems.. put the filament pen on the list to “buy later.”

To get into actual 3d printers, it requires a pretty decent jump up in investment. You are looking at about $200-$250 for the printer (or more) and then the cost for things like filament. For the manufacturing opportunities this opens up though, I consider it an immensely useful investment. You might consider even avoiding the 3D filament pen altogether and just save up for the full printer.

The first is a traditional FDM printer. These melt plastic filament down and then extrude them layer by layer in order to build an object. This particular model has some really nice features for the price, including an auto-levelling print bed and metal extruder.

While I believe it comes with a bit of sample filament, having some more on hand can prevent obstacles. When just starting out, I would suggest sticking with PLA. There are all kinds of different types of filament, though some are harder to print with than others.

The second is what is known as a resin or SLA printer. These will use lasers to cure resin. This link leads you to a bundle, so you shouldn’t need anything extra.

Both of these can be used to create some great prints/objects. There is a learning curve, so don’t expect to jump right into it and be able to do everything you want. But, we are working on making it all more accessible too.

The FDM printer is what most people are familiar with, but the layers it prints will generally be pretty obvious and blatant. These can be dealt with after the print is done through processes like acetone smoothing, but they are still there. The SLA printer is generally better for very intricate objects, like ultra detailed figurines. For most, the FDM printer will be the way to go, at least to start.

DO KEEP IN MIND!! You can frequently find good deals on open box items through major sites like amazon or eBay. You can expect to pay 25% less (or more), bringing the price down to about $150-$200.

When it comes to actually figuring out what to print, sites like Thingiverse are absolutely invaluable. If you are thinking about printing something, pretty much anything, there are probably multiple options shared on Thingiverse already! Go and check it out!

If you want to look into designing your own objects, some type of design software is probably necessary. Some printers come with their own proprietary software of some sort, or access to it, but I suggest DesignSpark Mechanical. For CAD software, it is incredibly intuitive and a pleasure to use. You can see an overview of it here, and then download it from this link if you want to pursue that route. There are also plenty of tutorials and resources on their website.

Mini-Solar System

Next up is energy. We will stick with solar, and a smaller system at that, but they are pretty easy to expand down the line. We will be building a 12v system, so as long as you stick to 12v items, adding things like more batteries, more panels, etc. is very easy. Even adding in wind power isn’t too difficult, though you will need something called a diversion load and the other pieces of equipment in the system need to be made for it.

Even though this is a smaller system, the power we are working with here can still be dangerous. Be careful! Don’t connect the battery terminals directly to each other! Don’t lick the batteries!

The cheapest-best option as of this writing is a 30 watt kit.

This is a great starter option. Don’t expect to power an enormous amount with it though. We will get more into specifics on that in a bit, but think of a system of this size more in terms of charging various devices and maybe some lighting.

However, this kit does not come with a power inverter. A lot of products nowadays can be powered directly by 12v power, yet it is VERY handy to be able to plug in normal devices just like you would plug them into a normal wall socket. Also similar to a normal wall socket, you can expand the amount of plugs an inverter has using things like a typical surge strip. However, don’t overload it (just like you wouldn’t want to overload an outlet in your house).

A typical household plug will usually be on a 15-20 amp circuit, whereas this inverter will only be able to provide about 5 amps. Don’t worry about those numbers too much, just realize you won’t be able to plug in your fridge or anything. To keep track of energy usage, there is a tool called a Kill-A-Watt meter, and they are great. Some less expensive options exist, like this one from Poniie, but I do not have any experience with them.

There are some pretty decent low cost options for the inverter though, and I believe this is the best design in the low-cost range.

This is a great little unit, though an upgrade at some point could be worth it. I’ll list some higher cost options at the end that, even if they might be worth the money, do increase the cost.

We will also need a battery. There are a lot of options on this front. More ah (amp hours) is generally better, though there are some differences in the different technologies. This is a 20ah battery, it’s a good size for a starter system. The actual brand isn’t particularly important at this level.

We have pretty much everything we need to connect all this, though the inverter only comes with cables that use clamps to connect to the battery. This can work, but is not secure. Luckily, shorter cables that will work do not add too much to the cost. Though to be clear, the clamps can work as a temporary solution!

We will also want some fuses in there to protect the equipment in the system as well as for safety. This part can frequently be left out by many people, but it’s important!

We aren’t going to go into any of the math on this, just be aware that if you look to upgrade this system in the future you are probably going to want to change the fuse values as well. Depending on how much you upgrade, you may even need to upgrade the wires. Don’t worry about that at all right now, just keep it in mind for the future. More information on fuse sizing can be found in the Solar 101 tutorial.

For the fuses, we will use some basic inline fuses with 10 amp values. We can eventually upgrade this to actual circuit breakers and breaker boxes. Probably for less money than you think, but it will still cost more.

To avoid doing anything like crimping and make this super easy to connect, we are going to use some lever-nuts. You just put the wire in and close the clamp, et voila! Connected. We are specifically going to use Wago connectors. There are some less expensive options, but they aren’t worth the savings. They are not reliable.

And that’s all you need for a small solar system!

Putting It Together

You will want to install the panel in an area that gets as much sun as possible. There are a plethora of different mounts and options. Place and angle the panel so that it gets direct light at mid-day. This will change by season though, so keep that in mind.

Then put the fuse on the + wire (usually red in these systems), using the Wago connecters. This will then run into the charge controller. The charge controllers are frequently touted as being “weatherproof,” but I would recommend installing it indoors or in an enclosure that keeps it safe from the elements.

From the charge controller, we will be going to the battery. Make sure to connect a fuse in the same way as before to the + wire (usually red in these systems). I like to put the fuses right at the charge controller. We will connect the inverter to the battery using the same terminals and bolts.

With connecting all these things, I will reiterate that you do want to be careful when working with it. Even if this is a small system, the amps that the battery puts out can still be dangerous. Just make absolutely sure that the red and black wires do not touch. Don’t be afraid, just have respect for it and make sure that you don’t directly connect (+) and (-). Including if you are doing performing a task like using a tool the tighten a bolt on the battery terminal. It can be easy to connect the two terminals with the tool. Again, don’t be afraid but have respect.

Mini-Aquaponics/Herb Garden

Due to the smaller size and cost, this should be looked at as more of a way to create a self-sustaining herb garden than a source of food. However, even if someone has a full aquaponics system that provides their food, having a nice decorative herb garden to season all that food can be great!

Beginning with the main structure of the system, this is a fantastic tank for the price.

We also want to look at a water pump. This part will eventually require a bit of DIY to expand the growbed. I’ve tried to avoid DIY as much as possible, but the AquaClear filter pump is likely the best one on the market, and has been for years. We aren’t too concerned with the actual filtering, as that will be done by the plants. But, we do need something that will pump the water out of the fish tank and eventually back again. In a full aquaponics setup, we would look at something different, however for a small herb garden the AquaClear pump can work for a very small growing area right off the bat.

Because it allows for variable flow and can last for a very long time, it’s prudent to dish out a little extra money for this part of the system. Eventually, we can modify this to create a larger growbed.

To start off with, we will probably only be looking at a single fish. The growing area provided by the filter/pump (about 5 square inches) can go a lot further than one might think simply because the foliage of the plants can go far beyond that space if they are properly supported. However, the plants will probably be small to begin with. To help supplement filtering, we can even use some of the normal filter media and slowly remove it as the plants can take over more of the load.

Eventually, we can work up to 3-5 small community fish or a single beta fish. You can look at the higher end of that range simply because of the efficiency of the closed ecosystem. A single beta fish may not produce quite enough waste to truly achieve a self-sustaining ecosystem, but it will still do better than if there were no fish.

Putting It All Together

To begin establishing our ecosystem, we want to fill the tank with water and let everything cycle for a week or even two. Basically, this will mean setting up the tank and Hang On Back (HOB) AquaClear filter, but empty of fish and without any plants. Then just let it run.

At this point, using a test kit is immensely useful. Even if the end system is capable of sustaining itself, it is a very good idea to keep an eye on things over time. Eventually, this can be automated so we don’t need to worry about it, but we will cover that in later, more advanced articles.

The API Master Test Kit is an industry standard.

This test kit will last quite a long time even if it adds to the cost rather substantially in this budget range. We also don’t need to really worry about testing until we are looking to put fish into the system, so it can be put off for a bit.

We also want to eventually include something that can oxygenate the water. A basic air pump with an air stone is just the ticket. There are a lot of options here, and even the commercial units can be surprisingly affordable, however we will just go with a basic, quiet unit.

This is another piece that isn’t particularly important at first and can be put off for a while. You do want it in there eventually though, and the cost is pretty reasonable at less than $20.

Another “You Can Put It Off” piece is some type of decoration for the bottom of the fish tank. This isn’t that important for our system, but it can make it look much nicer, can make the fish happier, and it doesn’t cost too much. There are too many options to give a specific product, but I would suggest going with something like glass. It is inert, which can be very important for a system like this. You can also check out local pet stores as well, since they will sometimes have the same stuff for much cheaper. Here is a link to the search results on Amazon though. Glass also tends to be easier to clean, when we need to do that.

Of course, there are also all kinds of different decorations that can go in there too. Including pieces from nature itself. Just make sure that if you use something from your backyard, that it is thoroughly cleaned and boiled before putting it in. Introducing “new things” into our ecosystem can disrupt the balance.

When we look at expanding the growbed further down the road, we probably want to look at specifically putting a growth medium for the plants. I am a big fan of Hydroton. Its relatively inexpensive, a neutral medium, and it can be reused. You may never reach the point where this is a concern, but having a complete reference might prove valuable.

To start with, 4 liters will work pretty well. Even if the growbed area expands to the size of the entire top of the tank itself, 4 liters should cover it.

One eventual upgrade you may want to look into is a grow light as well. For general herbs, this won’t be too necessary as long as it gets some normal sunlight. However, this is not always possible and decent quality LED grow lights are rather inexpensive now. At the lowest end of the budget are lights made by a company called FECiDA. They are shockingly good for the price.

This light effectively covers about 2ft x 2ft. For what it is, it is a very good low-cost option!

Upgrades

With the energy system, there are a few options that should be considered depending on your means.

The first is an upgraded power inverter made by AIMS Power. AIMS Power manufactures some very high quality products. This is also what is called a “pure sine wave” inverter. For most things, this will not be a concern. However, some items like fan motors prefer a pure sine wave to operate properly.

If you can afford it, it can also be a good idea to examine getting a larger solar panel.

The solar panel kit can be directly changed out for the one above, it will just fill up the battery more every day. You can use both panels too, if space allows for it. You may need to purchase new fittings and wire for the upgraded panel.

The last optional upgrade for the energy system is the battery. This is a 55ah unit, which will more than double the capacity. Technically you can mix and match battery capacities, however this is not recommended. Try to go with using the same capacities, internal technologies, and even brand. So, if you want to upgrade your system down the road, really try to get another battery of the same type that is already in the system.

I would also very strongly recommend getting a multimeter to work with the energy systems. This can be used to make sure everything is working correctly, troubleshoot possible problems, etc. These don’t cost much at all, and we don’t need some super accurate meter for this application.

However, if you can spend a bit more money on it, the basic multimeter from Fluke is an excellent purchase and will last you a lifetime. It’s also a lot easier to use since it finds ranges automatically.

This Fluke multimeter does not measure amps, but it does measure resistance and volts. To find amps, you would measure volts and resistance (in ohms). Then divide the volts by the resistance (in ohms). This is called Ohm’s Law.

Now, if you are interested in checking out the circuit breaker solution, we would need a breaker box and some circuit breakers (10 amps for this system to keep it easy).

These would replace the fuses. There is some debate whether these are as safe as traditional blade fuses, so you might look into it. If you start looking at upgrading other pieces in the energy system, you may need to get bigger circuit breaker values.

Final Thoughts

It is very difficult to determine just how much you will be able to power with these energy systems specifically. If we compare it to a typical combustion engine car; we can look at the battery as the gas tank, the solar panel as a gas pump, and the devices it powers as the Miles Per Gallon.

The solar panel “gas pump” is one we can only use during the day, and partial shade is one thing we want to avoid most. We can increase how much “gas” we pump each day by more panels, or higher wattage panels.

The battery “gas tank” determines how much we can use before we need a refill. If we use this during the day, this can be a bit offset by the “gas” that is being pumped from the panels.. but it’s on its own during the night. We can increase how much we can use in a 24 hour period by increasing battery capacity.

You may have heard of LiFePo (Lithium Iron Phospate) batteries. These are a great technology, but also cost more. Very roughly speaking, the stated capacity for this battery tech is double the usable capacity of more traditional batteries. Meaning, a 20ah LiFePo battery will function about the same as a 40ah battery of the type linked in this guide. They also charge a bit differently, so you might need to get a new charge controller too.

The “Miles Per Gallon” of the devices is something we can improve quite a bit. Large appliances obviously use a lot of energy, but the other thing that uses a lot of power are any devices with a heating coil. Something like a hair dryer probably uses a lot more energy than you might think.

Another approach we can use to increase our MPG efficiency is switching over to LEDs. While there are options from big corporations, I personally prefer the cost and creative opportunities that come from things like LED strips. At this point, I would actually recommend going with RGB strips rather than a solid color. They run about the same price, can be set to be a single color, and offer a whole lot of fun, creative opportunities.

These strips can be cut up as well! Each one is a little different, but the vast majority will even have handy little guides on the strips themselves showing where you can cut them. This option will also plug into the inverter itself.

You will still need to have wires running to them, but there are some easy pre-made kits for just this purpose.

You can run these strips wherever you want! I like to hide them a bit and create indirect lighting, but it’s up to you. You can even make your own reading lamps and other neat devices like that! There are a few different RGB lighting technologies at this point as well. I wouldn’t worry too much about it if you are just getting into it, but its good to know just what is possible (not my video):

Moving on to aquaponics, it is critical to understand that it is an approach that mimics natural ecosystems. While this can be applied to a simple herb garden, it can be deployed to completely redesign how we build and create more natural spaces. Particularly in human dense environments. We can design entire parks that are not only edible, but can bring types of wildlife that are simply not sustainable with current paradigms.

It’s not even so much about completely changing everything we know, rather, being clever about how we build what is already there.

I talk about this much more in The Case for Aquaponics. We have a framework to use for inspiration everywhere in nature. We can even incorporate everything from hydronic temperature regulation, evacuated chambers, and parabolic troughs to truly open up some extraordinary possibilities. We will talk about all that fun stuff in further articles, where we expand on the knowledge covered in the basic 101 tutorials.

Sometimes the easiest, most straightforward solution with the most obvious short-term gains is actually the optimal choice. However, it can just as easily trap and blind us to better options that might exist if we would only be clever enough, persistent enough, and open-minded enough to create them.

And, if we are clever enough, we can accomplish it in ways that are currently unimaginable to most and don’t even exist in any conversations about any of these topics at this time.

If you would like more advanced systems than these, or have more money to invest into it, check out some of my other articles where I get into more serious systems:

Tutorial: Solar Energy 101

Tutorial: Aquaponics 101